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Designing Dynamic Formats That Will Make Inserts Work for You in Co-ops and Package Insert Programs By Larry H Tucker If you have historically utilized solo direct mail to prospect for new customers, you’ve undoubtedly experimented with a number of variations in your mailing package: size and color of the envelope, the quantity and format of the enclosures, a long or short letter, a “lift” note, etc. If you’ve used magazine advertisers, you’ve tried different sizes, layouts, and copy to reach a balance of profitability against space charges. When you design an insert for a co-op mailing, a statement-stuffer, or a package insert program, though, you’ll have to start fresh. First of all, there are the limitations of size and weight: most mail insert programs will only accept pieces with a maximum folded size of 5-1/2” X 8-1/2” (or 3-1/2” X 8-1/2” for statement staffers or other ride-alongs in #10 envelopes). Although most advertisers use a single sheet, you may need four panels, or even more (especially if you’re providing a postpaid-envelope device for cash-with-order, or a fold-over response cardlcoupon for credit card orders). With the recent increase in Third Class postage, we’ve done quite a bit of testing of a smaller, more efficient size (5” X 7-3/8”), which we’re almost ready to consider the new “standard” size. Not only does it save on weight, but also it’s considerably cheaper to print. Ordinarily, you’ll have to keep the weight of your insert to ¼ ounce or less, or pay an overweight penalty. In some programs, you’ll get the lowest price with a piece weighing 1/10 of an ounce. All pieces must be machine-insertable, which means that you will be allowed to fold andlor perforate only in certain specific configurations and directions. Packing is especially important, so that inserts do not get wet or curled; otherwise, they jam the high-speed machines and incur penalties for downtime. Savvy marketers overcome the limitations of space, and consistently put a lot of “punch” into their inserts. Because we mail our Jane Tucker ‘s Supermarket of Savings co-op programs in a 6” X 9” envelope, I’ll discuss the most common formats we encounter; the same general principles will apply to other sizes as well. Place your big guns at the top Bear in mind that your insert will generally be included along with many others in a single carrier envelope or folder. Though you’ll usually have your product or service category to yourself, you’re competing for the reader’s attention as she flips or shuffles through the individual sheets or cards. You have to shout for attention right at the outset. Studies show that you have just about a second to stop busy or preoccupied consumers in their tracks. Although most inserts are set up vertically, a number of marketers use the horizontal format. For some specific products or groups of products, this is acceptable, and it may be the only way to profitably utilize the space to display your products in detail. But studies show that most consumers turn the “stack” of inserts to the vertical (which we recommend). One compromise might be to keep your “leading” side vertical and reserve the horizontal treatment for the back. In any case, you should concentrate your attention on the top third of your insert. Strong color will help focus attention here. So will a good action graphic. But if ever you needed a good, strong promise of a headline, this is it! Boldly state your unique selling proposition in language that’s particularly appealing to your target customer. The design of your insert should be shaped in large part to accommodate a bold, prominent headline (perhaps with an “eyebrow” lead-in) right at the top—not below the graphic, as in magazine ads. Any ‘800’ number should appear prominently on both sides. Lead the reader from front to back with a teaser line across the bottom or bottom right of the page. If there’s a second, separate product or offer on the back, “flag” this with a top corner slash or starburst. “See other side for even bigger savings” will also give you the opportunity to extol your premium or your terms. Opinions on whether the order form or coupon should be on the front or backside are about evenly divided. My feeling is that the price and the proposition should be clearly spelled out on the front side, but the back is a better place to use the space required by a coupon or order form. Sometimes you may need more than two panels to do the job, especially if you’re including a response card. High-bulk or 45# coated stock can be used to keep the total weight of a four-panel piece under ¼ ounce. What paper stock should you print on? You have quite a number of choices when it comes to stock. Our only major requirement is that the inserts be machine-insertable—able to be inserted into the outer mailing envelope (6” X 9”) without folding over or jamming the high-speed inserting equipment. Make sure that you have a closed edge—not a “Z” or accordion fold. You can print on coated stock as thin as 45# or as heavy as 12 points. Or you might want to try the supercalendared stock that’s used for some Free-Standing Inserts (FSI’s), supermarket tabloids, or newspaper magazines. A coated stock will always reproduce graphics better and make your products look as attractive as possible. If you have outstanding four-color photography of your product, or of people enjoying themselves using it (or taking a trip booked by your travel agency, or placing a call with your credit card), make sure in advance that your great graphic will reproduce on the quality of stock that you have chosen. Some stocks may “soak up” bright colors and make them darker. Fine lines may become a bit smudged. You may want to test two very different stocks to see if there’s an appreciable difference in response that would justify your investment in costlier paper. But bear in mind that paper costs about half of your total printing bill, so make a cost-effective decision, not merely an artistic one. Our clients generally use a 75# high-bulk stock for anything requiring a response card, and the vast majority of inserts are printed on 50# groundwood coated stock (grade 4 or 5). There are five grades of coated paper, each one progressively more white and opaque, with more rag stock. Since paper costs are related directly to weight and rag content, you can save a bit here. Or you may find that the investment in a higher quality, coated heavy stock will give your product that added “quality boost” that creates consumer confidence and enthusiasm. Numerous size options are available You’ll want your insert to hold its own in the mailing environment, so you probably don’t want it to be too much smaller than the other pieces it will accompany, or out of proportion. Although a mailing like ours cannot accept a piece larger than 5-1/2” X 8-1/2”, we can take a full-fold or short-fold piece (as long as it has a closed edge at the inserting size). Several “novelty” approaches, and even die-cut pieces, have gained enough additional response to justify the costlier printing and folding—and extra weight. Some marketers have tried “bank-tail” envelopes to make it easier to send in the payment with the order. Remember: the easier you make it for the recipient to respond, the greater response you’ll get. Some marketers who want an order back quickly but who don’t request money have used fold-over-and-glue formats (common on catalog bound-in order forms) for privacy when credit card or private information is requested. Or you can simply ask the consumer to fold over a regular-coated stock insert and tape or staple shut. This gives you the advantage of coated paper to highlight your graphics and product, with the returnability feature of a post card. Marketers who design such pieces with a clear understanding of printing economies can often boost response significantly without increasing their costs. If you decide to experiment with a short-fold, die-cut or other format which may impact the speed or efficiency of the inserting process, be sure to clear this with the program sponsor’s mailing house in advance, before you print. Testing by several leading mailers indicates that the difference in “pulling power” between a 5-1/2” X 8-1/2” piece and a smaller 5” X 7-3/8” piece may not always justify the higher cost of printing and paper for the slightly larger insert. In a business where pennies can make the difference between success and break-even, you can save about 20% on your production with the smaller size. And you can still get in a standard size response card. Similarly, you’ll save quite a bit if you don’t “bleed” color or graphics off the last quarter inch lip of the paper all around. But don’t simply reduce your film by 10% or 15%, shrinking your type down to a hard-to-read level. Restructure your layout to keep your type at least 10 points in height. Trim a graphic or reposition elements to use your space more efficiently. And remember that you can’t shrink or enlarge your BRC; FIM bar-coding marks must be the standard size. If you print your own inserts, don’t overlook proper packaging as you have them shipped to the inserting facilities. Huge bulk skids are often unwieldy for many lettershops to handle. They may also allow the materials to get warped in transit and hamper machine-insertability. Boxes that are too heavy, poorly packed, or overstuffed will almost always cause problems, since the individual sheets tend to get crushed, bent, or warped. This causes a good deal of wastage and slows down the inserting equipment. The end result is that you may run short on insertable material, and you will probably be charged for any delays that you cause in the overall process. Most program sponsors (including us) issue detailed instructions on packing and shipping your insert sheets. In the next article, we’ll discuss various approaches to coding, testing, and tracking the effectiveness of your various offers, headlines, graphics, and formats. | ||||||
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